Morocco unfurls in a fascinating fashion, moving into the modern world without forgetting its roots. A blend of exotic Arab and earthy Berber cultures, it’s peppered with French architecture mixed with mud-brick kasbahs. It’s lovely in spring and autumn, awash with the colour of its bustling souks and amazing sights. Summer is hot unless you’re by the sea; winter is wonderful for a walking holiday. Travellers go to Morocco with a few ‘to dos’ in mind: ride a camel in the Sahara, shop in the souks, buy a rug, luxuriate in a hammam (bathhouse), wander Marrakech’s vibrant Djemaa el-Fna square, catch the sun by the Atlantic, and meet the Berbers who inhabit this top pocket of North Africa.

Moroccan highlights

Berbers are the original Moroccans, surviving endless invasions and skirmishes last century with the French. Many still live a traditional life, and tours can include a visit to a village where a goat, a few rabbits, a cow and a sheep all cohabit with the satellite dish. Berber women still work their terraces, harvesting almonds, figs, dates, wheat, barley and grapes. Late afternoon sees them with scythes and baskets, gathering tomorrow’s food. Two-thirds of Moroccans are Berber, living in the Rif and the 4000-metre-high Atlas Mountains which divide the green west and the arid east. You can see the snow tops from Marrakech and, if you do a walking tour there, the minerals and quartz rocks sparkle underfoot. You’ll also see wild herbs and nomadic goats.

The western Sahara is home to that other Moroccan favourite – the camel. Join the famous Berber ‘blue men’ on a camel trek to an overnight Bedouin camp where you can sleep under the stars. Middle-of-the-night sandstorms can strike unexpectedly,  and, when the brochure says ‘gets cold at night’, believe it. Sunset is awesome and you get used to the rocking of the camel as it pads through the golden dunes. Treks start from Zagora near Erg Chigaga, or Merzouga for Erg Chebbi. The night before the trek, you stay in an auberge (basic hotel), and sometimes the ‘blue men’ will play the drums and dance. They may even offer you a puff on a shisha (water pipe). 

Djemaa el-Fna is the famous square in Marrakech. Hundreds of locals and travellers mingle at sunset to eat at the food carts, listen to Gnaoua musicians and storytellers, and watch snake charmers and ‘water men’ take their dirhams. Everyone – including acrobatic kids and monkeys – turns a trick, and the rhythm of drumming fills the night sky. To the north of Djemaa el-Fna lies the great souk, which is a highlight. Bartering is a game that Moroccans expect you to play and the interchange is generally good humoured. Offer one-third of what the vendors ask and pay no more than half.

Other must-see sites in Marrakech include the 800-year-old Koutoubia minaret, not far from Djemaa el-Fna, and the stunning mosque and medersa (Islamic college) of Ali Ben Youssef. Garden lovers should visit Jardin Majorelle, a subtropical paradise designed by French painter Jacques Majorelle in the early 1900s. Yves Saint Laurent has restored the garden and established a trust to guarantee its future. Take a horse and carriage ride (caleche) back to your hotel. There are many modern hotels in Guéliz, the new city, and luxurious riads (traditional houses) in the medina (the old quarter), hidden behind high walls. They provide a stark contrast to the frenetic street-life.               

A hammam (steam bath) is a great way to feel squeaky clean after the dust of Djemaa el-Fna. There are public hammams in most cities, separate for men and women; in western hotels you can share the hammam with your partner. The baths are set in a softly lit room and there are scented potions to mix with the warm water. A masseur scrubs you with a ‘sandpaper-like’ black glove to remove dead skin. It’s a pleasant experience dating back to Roman times.

Roman ruins in hilltop Volubilis, in the fertile agricultural area near Meknes, are also worth a visit. The Romans occupied Morocco in 40AD and many treasures are still to be uncovered at this UNESCO site. Volubilis has temples, triumphal arches, communal baths and toilets, a brothel and a vomitorium. Yes, the Romans were both debauched and bulimic! The city had wonderful villas, many of which still have the floor mosaics intact. Guides can paint a picture of daily Roman life in Volubilis before the earthquake. 

Fez is Morocco’s handicraft capital. Weavers, potters, leatherworkers, metalworkers, woodworkers and embroiderers still work in tiny spaces in the medina. This area is a time-warp – skinny streets and blind alleys with tall walls that block the midday sun. It’s a highly organised living warren that’s survived for more than 1000 years. Cries of “Balek, balek”, meaning “donkey coming”, echo in the medina. Step aside!  The guide will take you to the famous 1000-year-old tanneries, where hides are cured, then dyed in huge vats of vibrant colour that honeycomb the yard. Sprigs of mint held to the nose alleviate the smell. Fabulous leather shops are close by.

Coastal Essaouira is the place to eat seafood and buy jewellery. This blue-shuttered, whitewashed fishing town is a cross between France (it was designed by a Frenchman), Portugal (they invaded) and Morocco. A magnet for Sixties hippies, Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger were also enticed here by Gnaoua music. Art galleries, antique shops and cafes abound. The living is easy here, as is the whole Morocco experience.